As a teenager in the 80s, Belfast was synonymous with tragic events, violence, and danger. Not a place you’d visit for a weekend trip or a holiday, basically. With my once favourite band’s hit in my ears, or the U2 screaming Sunday Bloody Sunday, I never considered it a destination.

Thankfully things have very much changed, and my now favourite band’s gig was the reason I finally booked a weekend trip… and Belfast really captured my attention.

Despite the Troubles and the past, horrible happenings for the Irish people on all sides – with an enduring ripple effect – I found the city really interesting, with some beautiful architecture and very friendly people.

So how did I spend my weekend in Belfast?

Joined a history walk

This, in my view, is a must – there is so much complex history and the factors that eventually led to the Troubles from the 1970s have roots in the past, as most similar cases. I was not sure where to start from, so as soon as I arrived, I popped into the Visit Belfast office (make sure you pick up some craft souvenirs by the way – I didn’t and regretted it) and asked the very friendly customer representative which tour he would recommend to an Italian who studied little Irish history and was visiting for the first time.

He thus recommended a History of Terror walk by DC Tours ‘100% guaranteed neutral and unbiased’. I was tempted to join a tour led by former political prisoners, but it did feel right to start with the basics, and I am glad I did. My guide was the daughter of an English and an Irish parent, so she did really have both sides in a way, and I left with a bit more understanding of how the situation escalated and why, even if at the same time I felt I barely scratched the surface.

Whichever tour you might pick, I do believe it’s truly a must to appreciate Belfast today

Visited the Titanic Experience

Of course, Belfast is also known for its excellent maritime past and present and the Titanic, the world’s more tragic maritime accident and possibly the most famous shipwreck in history, was built right here. The new museum dedicated to her history is built right by the docks where she was born, in a futuristic and not a little ugly structure. I had some concerns it might be a huge tourist trap, and yet I spent nearly two hours, and truly enjoyed it.

The experience starts way back, way before any maritime industry had begun, and in fact it highlights how Belfast and this part of Ireland became one of the industrial revolution’s centres, starting from the manufacture of linen all the way to the ship building. The exhibition then focuses on the Titanic herself with some immersive sections (I loved the VR views, a little less the ‘ride’ into the shipyard (style over substance? It must have cost a fortune, and I am not sure it’s worth it). The way the experience concludes it’s actually truly beautiful and emotional and I won’t spoil it but I did walk out feeling quite sombre.

Had a drink the the Crown Liquor store

Wow. The Crown Liquor store is Belfast’s oldest pub (allegedly) and it’s incredibly beautiful. From the wood cladding the ceilings to the ornate Victorian tiling it’s a sight to behold. Unique to the pub are the booths with individual doors built by Italian wood craftspeople and used by the wealthy patrons to have privacy when socialising. We couldn’t believe our luck when we manage to secure one! The details are incredible: the plaques ‘Matches’, the button to call for service, the decorated mirror (the sign that explains it was restored after being damaged in a bomb explosion is another poignant reminder of what the city went through).

Enjoyed the street art

While the walking tours do focus on the street art murals particularly linked to the Troubles, I really enjoyed discovering many examples of how the city feels like celebrating its rebirth (my words!). From the giant tiled Salmon by the riverside, to the lady with the hoola hoop, the onion ring and of course the (often political) murals, the umbrellas over Commercial Street, there’s lots to see and discover!

Discovered the café culture

My walking guide pointed to a couple of cafes saying ‘See the queues? They are big on tik tok’. I did not visit either of these but I did check out a couple of really lovely specialty coffee shops and had breakfast at Established Coffee, deciding to skip the more formal breakfast offered by Neighbourhood Cafe.

Both places were not full at all when I arrived, around 9am on a Sunday. By the time I had finished my poached egg and soy glazed mushrooms on sourdough toast and a great flat white, both places had a humongous number of people waiting to get in. I also picked up another good flat white and a cake at a branch of local mini chain Trait which I would recommend too.

The staff in each place I visited were very very friendly and young, and locals. This makes me think – again very much my own interpretation – that the new generations feel the positivity of the future and the need to move on, away from religion-induced violence. Who knows.

I am so glad I visited Belfast! There is still so much to see, including world famous Giant’s Causeway outside town. I stayed at a very central hotel which I would not recommend (the Maldron), and flew with EasyJet into and out of Belfast City Airport which is extremely convenient and well connected.

Till next time Belfast!