If you mention the Amalfi coast, everyone knows and raves about it. Yet Cilento is just next door, a further hour or so south from the bustling chaos of Napoli.

The word itself brings back memories of long, endless summers, old villages, the sound of the crickets in the midday sun, the blue sky and the stars Since I was 2, I have been spending my summer holidays in a small place called Villammare, located on the Gulf of Policastro, near the town of Sapri. Italians are usually familiar with the area, at least geographically, but foreigners hardly ever know where Cilento is located.

Apart from the beauty of the place, in its rugged mountain peaks and the vertical coastline all the way down to Maratea, the area is known for the food and recently, the wines too.

Below some tips to help you plan your holiday in Cilento

1- Discover crystal clear water and beautiful beaches

The wide gulf of Policastro emcompasses a few villages – including my favourite Villammare – and is enclosed by the Punta degli Infreschi point to the north and ends with the port of Sapri to the south. Within, stretches of spacious beaches (sand and small pebbles, mostly), fully organised for the summer months with free areas and private lidos. To the edges of the gulf there are some incredible hidden rocky bays and coastlines, beautiful and offering some exceptional swimming opportunities. We love scuba diving here! We dive with Cilento Scuba Dream, a female-owned young company who also organised kayak and sup tours of the area, and we couldnʼt recomment them more.

2 – Enjoy the local cuisine and produce

When we visit, we love eating and cooking at home because the local markets sell plenty of ‘chilometro zero’ vegetables and I love eating things that I don’t usually find here. For example, I love the ‘talli‘ which are the leaves and the un-developed courgettes. Lightly fried in the pan, they are delicious.

Another big summer dish is ‘pizze fritte’. My grandma always made them for us.. calories aplenty but who’s counting now? They are soft, shallow fried in the pan, and either topped with fresh tomato sauce, basil and parmesan or filled with local salame and ricotta.

There is an indoor farmers market in the centre of Sapri which is a great place to visit, to buy fresh produce but also stock up on items to take home such as local dried aromatic herbs and preserves.

Eating out offers so many options, from fine dining to local trattorias.

One place to try is Fratimo, by the Sapri cinema. Gianfranco, the larger than life chef, uses locally fished catch and without too much pretentious preparation, serves up some fabulous plates such as Citrus Marinated Sea bream, Paccheri with fish Ragu and Courgette and Tuna sashimi pasta.

Another favourite has to be Krioʼ Gelsomare in Capitello. Gorgeous location as it’s right on the beach smart decor, great service. The food is creative and full of flavours starters (such as tartare of salt cod and citrus), fantastic mains such as Fusilli with pancetta and smoked mozzarella and is peaceful and has an easy car park (a plus during peak times).

They also have lovely rooms so you can stay here, and their beach is quiet and well cared for.

On a more rustic, local scale, we love Cantina Lu Rancu, one of the long standing restaurants in Sapri’s main square. In the summer, they spill out onto the square and it’s always very pleasant eating here. It might not be the top of the gourmet Cilento, but the hand made, robust local food always delivers. Dishes such as Cavatielli with broccoli, courgette flowers filled with ricotta, grilled mutton, are always on the menu.

However, in terms of genuine, no fuss eating, our favourite is without a doubt la Rustica.

This unpretentious, very local, restaurant has been cooking the same stuff for years but never fails to disappoint and for the prices they charge, is not to be missed. Pasta al Forno, Impepata di Cozze, Grilled cheese, Antipasti, Saute di Vongole and of course, the Spaghetti alle Vongole are all dishes that we never tire to eat here. Outdoor seating and a colourful owner make this one of our favourite experiences each summer.

3 – Make the most of the aperitivo tradition

Spritz are sadly now omnipresented and watered down affairs everywhere; still in Italy we still very much enjoy the ʼaperitivoʼ time, and there are some excellent spots in Cilento to enjoy such tradition. A glass of cold white wine, a local red, perhaps a zero alchool refreshing beer, or a G&T, not matter your choice, you can be sure you will be fed the most delicious of local snacks.

We absolutely love Mauamma, tucked away in a tiny, shrinking alley in the picturesque hilltop village of Vibonati; think Ibiza cool vibes, good music and relaxed athmosphere with a great wine list.

We also love Tresoldi right on Sapriʼs promenade, which at sunset offers unparallel views over the bay and a great selection of drinks and appetizers and, a bit away from the seaside crowds, Storie di Pane in Vallo della Lucania, bakery and deli by day (fabulous breakfasts) and great place for a drink in the evening.

4 – Enjoy one of the best ice creams in Italy

Our friend Enzo Crivella is a point of reference for local foodies. We’ve known him since we were kids. He is the local rep for the Slow Food, and currently owns an ice cream parlour on the seaside (Crivella) and opposite, a smart, tea room called Chocolatera.

Whether is for a morning coffee and croissant, a glass of prosecco before dinner or a digestif and a dessert, it’s a must, much like his ‘Sapresine’. Donut shaped local delicacies  which went down a treat in my team in London, made by Saprese women using Cilentan  honey, hazelnuts and white figs. He also does aperitivo, his own way… savoury ice creams and creative pairing with local fish and cheeses, for those with a curious palate.

Getting to Cilento

Fly to Naples or Salerno Costa dʼAmalfi with Easyjet, BA, WizzAir and Ryanair then hire a car (2.5 – 1.5h respectively).

Sapri is served by high speed trains and itʼs about 2h from Naples, 3.5h from Rome.